In The Garden
By Ralph Purkhiser, Purdue University Master Gardener
In the Garden
Ralph Purkhiser, Purdue University Master Gardener
With the snow cover the last two weeks, food from natural sources has been more difficult for birds to find. That has brought them to my feeding station outside my picture window in large numbers. Filling the feeders has become a daily task.
I offer a variety of food in a variety of feeders in order to attract a variety of birds. I have to say I have been successful in this effort. I do not claim to be an expert, although I have access to a great ornithologist (bird doctor) who has taught me a lot about birds. However, over many years of feeding and watching birds outside my window, I have learned many things that I will share with you.
If I could offer only one type of bird food, it would be black oil sunflower seeds. Most of the bird species that frequent feeders will eat sunflower seeds. Hulled seeds are their preferred form, but they are rather expensive, so I do not buy them. A few years ago, the situation in Ukraine resulted in rising prices for the black-oil sunflower seeds, but I am happy to report that the prices are back down, and one may purchase a 40-pound bag of seed for less than seventeen dollars at some of the area farm stores. I put black-oil sunflower seed in a hopper feeder, in a few tube feeders, and, as I indicated last week, in the acrylic feeders that are attached to the outside of the picture window. Some birds eat the whole seed, while others hull them. Those hulls are the only drawback, but I just pick them up and add them to the mulch in some flower beds.
I also have a couple of feeders which I fill with a premium seed mixture. Some of the less-expensive mixes contain a lot of cracked corn and milo. While there are birds that will eat these, they are often just dropped on the ground as birds search for the more-desirable seeds in the mix.
I also offer suet cakes. This is the preferred food for woodpeckers and several other birds. I offer these in wire feeders, hanging them in areas that are not easily accessible to squirrels, raccoons and other animals. I have not noticed any great difference in the number or species of birds when I use the less-expensive brands. However, if you plan to continue offering suet cakes in the summer, you should switch to the dough cakes that will not become rancid in the heat. I also sometimes make my own suet cakes by rendering animal fat and mixing it with peanut butter, corn meal and some seeds. I sometimes pour it into pretty teacups and tie on ribbons to suspend them from tree branches.
Jays and some other birds are very fond of peanuts. While some birdwatchers do not like to attract jays, I have found them to be useful in driving off cats and other predators. By offering them peanuts, they tend to still allow the smaller birds to eat at the feeders, especially the feeders that are less-accessible to large birds. I use peanuts in the shell, but many birds will eat shelled and broken peanuts. I put peanuts on platform feeders, but I have to be careful to keep them away from the raccoons and squirrels.
I sometimes put out peanut butter for the birds, especially for woodpeckers. I put peanut butter in some small logs that I have found that have holes in them. I hang these in trees. I have also smeared pinecones with peanut butter and rolled them in birdseed and offered them on platform feeders.
Perhaps the most expensive bird food that I offer is dried mealworms. I do this because they are the best way to attract eastern bluebirds. I have also learned that one may purchase mealworms in the poultry section at farm stores for much lower prices than the ones in the wild bird feed sections. I put the mealworms in hanging platform feeders.
I sometimes just spread cracked corn and other seed on the ground. Doves and some other birds rarely eat from feeders, but they clean up the seed that other birds drop. Birds will also eat fruits and berries and will eat bread and other human food. However, bread does not offer much in the way of nutrition, so I do not recommend feeding it to the birds.
This is far from a complete bird-feeding primer, but it will be enough to get you started. Watching the birds has brought me countless hours of entertainment for a relatively low cost.
In the Garden
Ralph Purkhiser, Purdue University Master Gardener
The snow and bitter cold in recent days has driven me inside for most of my time. I still make it a point to visit the garden daily, if only for a few minutes. Often, my walks have been limited to the sidewalk connecting my driveway with my house. However, I can see a large part of the garden from that vantage point. Of course, most of the view has been that of a blanket of white. The quilt of snow seems to be stitched with the footprints of the wildlife that share my garden.
As I have often stated, my garden was designed as a place for wildlife. Even when the ground is covered with snow, taller grasses and flower stems offer seeds and shelter for birds and small mammals. Watching these creatures provides great enjoyment during long winter days. I am blessed to have a large picture window in my living room from which I can watch a large part of the garden from a warm, comfortable place. The Christmas tree has been removed from the window area, and in its place are some of my tropical and sub-tropical bonsai specimens and other potted plants to frame the space. A hanging pothos sends out vines to enhance the window valance. On each end of the window is a bird feeder attached with suction cups. These are filled with black oil sunflower seeds. In the area in front of the window are bird feeders of various types to accommodate the feeding habits of the birds who visit. A tall director’s chair gives me a comfortable perch for myself, and I have to force myself to relinquish that spot to get other work accomplished.
Feeding the birds is not something that I feel obliged to do, nor would I ever try to convince you that it is your duty to spend your hard-earned money to buy birdseed to offer to the wildlife. Sandhill Gardens provides enough food for many flocks of birds, even if I never put any additional food out. Even if you do not live in a garden designed for wildlife, feeding the birds is not necessary. In most areas, there are enough parks, gardens and wooded areas that provide the food the birds need. Bird feeding stations are really for the bird watcher. They serve to bring the birds close to the people who want to see them. I have heard some people lament that they have to find someone to fill the feeders when they go on vacations. This is certainly not necessary. The birds may leave the yard in search of food, but they usually return pretty quickly when the feeders are filled again when the resident returns.
At Sandhill Gardens, the birds usually ignore the feeders until the natural food sources are covered with snow. Only then, are they coaxed to come for the easy meals. They do then become accustomed to eating at the feeders, and will continue to do so as long as the feeders are filled. Since I spend more time out in the gardens during the warm months, I usually do not put food in the feeders to draw them to the window area after garden growth begins in the spring.
Besides food, birds need shelter and water. I recently acquired a heated birdbath that keeps the water from freezing. This certainly attracts a lot of birds. Again, this is something I do to be able to watch the birds. At Sandhill Gardens, there is a spring coming from the cave, and water is always available there. However, it is at the bottom of the cliff, and certainly not viewable from my house. Even in the winter, the water needs to be changed frequently to keep the water clean and safe for the birds.
Next week, we will discuss the types of food one may offer to the birds and the best types of shelter. If you provide these necessities, the birds will come. The really do bring me a lot of joy and entertainment.
In the Garden
Ralph Purkhiser, Purdue University Master Gardener
Winter sowing sites have taken over my computer! Many of the posts tout winter sowing as a new phenomenon is the gardening world. Nothing could be further from the truth. It takes only a few minutes of reading the posts to determine that this very helpful planting method is misunderstood by many.
Winter sowing is not the same as greenhouse or hotbed sowing. Both of those methods are intended to provide a modified environment by using some form of heat, thereby causing seeds to germinate earlier than they would if planted outside. After germination, a heated environment is necessary to keep the young plants alive.
Winter sowing is also not the same as starting plants in your house in a sunny window or under grow lights. These methods are also used to produce transplants for the garden earlier than one could by sowing the seeds directly in the garden in the spring.
Winter sowing will not produce transplants for early planting. Instead, it is meant to provide a more controlled environment and to isolate seedlings that would be sprouting when nature warms enough for germination.
In a natural setting, a plant produces seed at the end of a growing season. As the weather cools in fall and winter, those seeds drop to the ground or are carried by birds and other wildlife. Some of those seeds germinate in the cool weather of autumn, but many seeds lie on the soil until the following spring. The seeds of many plants actually require a cold period before they will germinate. Winter provides that cold period, and when the weather warms in the spring, the seeds germinate and the new plants grow. Of course, not every seed becomes a new plant. Some are eaten my wildlife. Some do not make good contact with the soil and may dry out too much to germinate. Some may be blown onto pavement or other inhospitable environments. Rains may wash away some seeds, and some may be trapped under huge piles of leaves. Winter sowing simply removes many of these variables.
The best candidates for winter sowing are the plants that naturally self-sow. If you purchase seeds for coneflowers, milkweed and other wildflowers, the packet may instruct you to chill the seeds in the refrigerator for several weeks. You may skip that step if you are winter sowing. This scarification will occur naturally, just as it does when the plants drop seeds in a meadow.
Most winter sowing instructions tell you to plant in clear or translucent plastic jugs, such as water jugs. You will need four inches of soil for the best results, so the jug should be cut to leave a container about six inches tall. Cut some drainage holes in the bottom. I find that a hot-glue gun with no glue stick is good for this. Fill the container with about four inches of moistened planting medium. I suggest using a sterile soilless mix, so you do not have to worry about weed seeds. Spread your seeds and cover them at the depth recommended on the packet. Use masking tape to tape the top of the jug back on. If you are doing more than one kind of seed, use a nursery marker to label the jugs. Regular markers may fade.
Place the jug in a sunny location outside. When it warms enough for germination, the tiny plants will grow. You may then need to open the jugs to add water. If the plants touch the top of the jug, you will need to transplant them to the garden or into individual containers.
While this method may be new to some, it is essentially the same as growing in a cold frame. It does not give you plants earlier than direct sowing, but it allows you to control the soil and moisture, and it isolates the plants from others that would be growing in the garden. It is a great way to get more of the plants you need to fill a pollinator garden.
In the Garden
Ralph Purkhiser, Purdue University Master Gardener
The Perennial Plant Association has announced that Pycnantheum muticum is the 2025 Perennial Plant of the Year. The association is a group of plant breeders, nurseries, university researchers and botanical garden staff members who share an interest in perennial plants for the landscape. The selection process allows members to submit nominations for the award, which are narrowed down to four final candidates. The members then vote for the winner. Unlike many “plant of the year” selections, the Perennial Plant of the Year is not one of those new and improved plants. Instead, it is a plant that may be grown in a large area of the country and that has shown garden usefulness over many years. This year’s selection is actually native to a large portion of the country.
Commonly known as clustered mountain mint, it is not a true mint and it is not limited to mountainous areas, but its growth habit is clustered. It is a tough, adaptable plant commonly found in meadows and open woodlands in many areas east of the Rocky Mountains. It is cold hardy in zones 4 through 8. It prefers moist areas, but, once established, will survive hot weather and drought.
If you are a gardener who likes plants to stay in one area, surrounded by mulch, this is not the plant for you. Like true mints, to which it is related, clustered mountain mint will spread by seeds and running roots. Its growth habit is spreading and it is best used to mix with taller plants that have more significant blooms or dark foliage. It is great as a living mulch that will shade out weeds. The minty scent and somewhat fuzzy texture of the foliage also serves to make the plant less palatable to deer and other foragers.
The blooms of clustered mountain mint are nondescript. That is not to say that the blooms are unimportant. When the small white or pink flowers open, small bees and other pollinators will be there to seek the nectar. More noticeable than the blooms are the silvery bracts that surround the actual flowers and persist long after the flowers are gone. The bracts and gray-green foliage serve as a great contrast for plants with burgundy foliage, and make a long-lasting cut foliage when combined with large, bright-colored flowers in vase.
Like many perennials, clustered mountain mint benefits from the Chelsea chop. In fact, this plant may be sheared back after each bloom period to create a more-compact plant and encourage another round of blooms.
I cannot remember having ever seen clustered mountain mint at a local nursery. You are more likely to find it as plugs from a native-plant nursery, or order some seeds and give winter sowing of native seeds a try. Having been selected as the Perennial Plant of the Year, it will likely be more available this year.
I noticed some hellebore buds when I returned home from a short trip on January 1. The next day, I took another walk in the garden and found three hellebores in bloom. This is not unusual, and these were in a clump of Helleborus niger, known as the Christmas rose. They will be fine once the snow melts. The snow acts to insulate garden plants, so just enjoy the beauty it brings to the garden. Stay warm and safe.
In the Garden
Ralph Purkhiser, Purdue University Master Gardener
As we move into a new year, seed and nursery catalogues start to arrive. They are the equivalent to the Sears wishbook for gardeners. However, like the Sears catalogue, seed catalogues are not what they used to be. In this digital age, some companies have ceased printing catalogues. Others send catalogues only on request, with some actually charging for the books. Of course, the seed and nursery companies all have websites, and one can sit at a computer and search for seeds and plants. However, it does not have the feel of sitting in a recliner on a cold, snowy January day, thumbing through the pages of seed catalogues and marking the pages on which must-have plants are featured.
Whether using the electronic forms or printed books, seed and nursery catalogues should come with a warning label—“Perusing these pages may be hazardous to your bank account!” Be sure to check out the shipping costs. Costs vary greatly from company to company, but these added costs may add a lot to the final bill. Also look at the warranty being offered. Some companies will replace plants that do not thrive in your garden; others do not offer warranties on their products.
Also beware of the pictures and “new and improved” labels. Breeders are constantly working to get larger blooms, better disease resistance and expanding planting zones of plants, but catalogues may exaggerate the improvements, and most certainly the colors you see in the books are not the exact colors you can expect to see in the garden. Be especially wary of blue plants. Blue is rare in the plant world, and there are few true blue flowers. The catalogue may have a flower that is royal blue, but do not be disappointed if the blooms are blue violet or some other shade of purple. Also watch for a “substitution” statement, giving the company the right to substitute another plant or seed packet if the one you order is out of stock. It is disappointing to have ordered a special item and receive something unexpected.
Despite the drawbacks, I love looking through the seed catalogues. I will mark plants I find interesting and I enjoy reading the descriptions for new offerings. I have a healthy level of skepticism, so I am not taken in by the descriptions of perfect plants.
After hours and even days of looking through catalogues, comparing the offerings and prices of various companies, I will make a decision on my seed order for the up-coming season. I prefer to buy plants and seeds at local garden centers, but I know that some new plants and specialty seeds are not likely to be available locally. I usually order several varieties of greens, especially my favorite oriental greens. I will order Malabar spinach, more for its vigorous growth and blooms than its value as a food crop. I will also order red okra for both eating and using in flower arrangements. It is hard to find red okra locally.
I rarely order plants. I have been disappointed too many times when I have received tiny specimens that will take years to reach the size of the plant image in the catalogue. I prefer to see the plant before buying it, and I will stop at every greenhouse and garden center I pass when they open in March. I may have to wait a year or two to get the new plants, but if the plant is truly an improvement on the old plants, it will eventually show up locally, and likely in a larger size. If it does not become available locally, it may be because the plant has not performed well in our climate.
The first day when the roads are slick with snow or ice, I will heed the recommendation to stay at home. I will have a fire in the fireplace and a stack of seed catalogues next to my chair. It is the perfect way to spend a winter day.
SalemLeader.com
Leader Publishing Company of Salem, Inc.
P.O. Box 506
117-119 East Walnut Street
Salem, Indiana. 47167
Phone: 812-883-3281 | Fax: 812-883-4446
Business Hours:
Mondays through Fridays, 9:00am - 5:00pm
News:
news@salemleader.com
Office:
office@salemleader.com
Publisher:
publisher@salemleader.com
Business
- More Business News
- Go To Guide
- Business Directory
- Auctions
Education
- More Education News
Opinion
- Editorials
- Letters to the Editor
- Columns
- Unsung Heroes
- Days Gone By
- In the Garden
- Guest Columns
- Reader's Poll
- Salem Leader Forum
- Questions and Answers
Church
- Bible Aerobics
- Church News
- Church Directory